Body work

[glessen]

Hello again you guys and gals....

Working on the body of our Galaxie. I am going to try to explain this so bare with me, women trying to explain something (oh brother)lol. You know when you put bodyfiller on the car. You think you have it smooth, but when you prime it it sticks out like a sore thumb. Can I wet sand that or how should I get it to blend in???

Krista

[fomocoguy]

I struggle with that every time I try body work. I've learned that what I've usually done is removed too much bondo around the edges and it ends up "popping out" in the middle. Then I go backwith a thin layer and try again. And again. And again. Bodywork is an art for sure...

[jimmy828]

polyester glazing putty seems to feather out well. Even though i use bondo and have sanded it down, i go over it with the polyester so it will feather the edges of work area better. ALLWAYS use a block for sanding. I think you will notice a difference.

[crewdcab]

Use a primer surfacer. They have a really high build and are designed to cure just the problem you are having. 3 to 4 coats, then a fog coat of another color. Block sand wet, the lower surfaces will still have the fog coat, while the highs will not. You will sand until the lows are gone and the highs are not down to metal. You may prime more than once, depending on how good your body work is.

[glessen]

Well I used icing over the bondo. Some spots are good some of them come out and smack you. So I can wet sand on this? And yes I will use a block.... We are completely restoring our 63 Galaxie. And putting in new panels. So covering up the welding. NOT FUN!!!! Not fun when your husband thinks you're God and you can work miracles.... On this side I have.......urggggg.

Krista

[crewdcab]

I am not familiar with icing. Try to get the TDS(techinical data sheets) from where ever you purchased it. That will tell you what you can and cannot do with the product. I would still primer surface it, especially since you have replaced tin. Most folks will have some warpage.

[glessen]

Oh yes I have had wrapage. And the iceing I can use with this product. I think I am going to wet sand first and see what it does. I will shoot myself if I try to sand it and remove to much. This side has been a pain!!!! I will post pictures later of before and now. Not fun.

Krista

[PhantomoftheBumpside]

I like to spell body filler this way... "L E A D"

Plastic filler is for plastic cars.

[70_F100]

A long, inline sander works well to make everything come out flat.

[woods]

I'm terrible at bodywork. But, here is a tip I got from a guy who is good at it. Close your eyes and run your hand over it. If you can tell where it starts from the regular metal, you will see it in the paint.

[70 ranger]

Do not wet sand a polyester putty. It will soak up the water and cause blistering later on down the road. If you have done this already you need to put some heat to it to evaporate the moisture before you do anything. The icing you are using sounds like USC icing? it is really thin and easy to apply. if your filler work is ready for putty this should be easy for you. Like some of the guys mentioned if you use a "guide coat" first it will make the high spots and low spots stand out. Years ago we used a light mist of a different colour spray bomb. now you can get a charcoal based guide coat that you apply with a soft sponge. Use a big block or board and take your time. One of the old timers used to get me to put a cloth on the car when I ran my hand over it. This made it less obvious where the different layers where and more obvious where the highs and lows were. You need to get it straight with the coarser grits, then make it smooth. Wet sand paper is usually finer. Most manufacturers want you to finish the filler with around 120 grit then finish the putty with 180. You want to get it straight with fillers not primer surfacers.

[67mann]

I like to spell body filler this way... "L E A D"

Plastic filler is for plastic cars.

Yeah that's an art form that most "shade tree" body people know But if ya know how to do it....Kudo's That's the way my father's 72 chevelle convertible was done and that was 30+yrs ago. I prefer to use Almetal(or metal base)on the area over the weld and then thin over with lightweight filler

[PhantomoftheBumpside]

Not much to it... soldering only bigger, and FIRE! if you use vintage irons. Torch, iron, acid, lead, apply, smooth, sand, repeat. Wash that seam right outta your car.

How does a shade tree anything learn to turn a hunk of rust into a drivable piece of memories?

Just do it.

Hopefully they are safe while doing it. Standard rules apply, make sure the car won't roll over you or into you (Chock the wheels, don't let it run, etc.), don't set yourself on fire, don't throw acid in your face, be above your work (hot lead falls just like everything else, we wouldn't want it on our face either.), don't breathe fumes (paint, gas, lead, exhaust, glue...), don't accidentally make thermite by sanding/grinding/polishing on aluminum (Crown Vic Front ends, grilles, trim) and steel (old frame, rusty fenders,etc..) with the same tools or in the same areas and letting the shavings/filings/dust mix... ya know... how DOES anyone keep living?

OOOH... look!!! A non-lead leading kit with artist/master/metal genius training DVD !!!
http://www.eastwood.com/ew-body-solder- ... h-dvd.html

Lead is king, but is second on the list for good body work...

Primary is learning proper metal control. Learn to shrink and stretch to get the dents and dings out, same for welding in patches, make sure they are properly shaped and formed/contoured and use small stitches and heat control to prevent warping. Getting the techniques right mean that the panels will only need small amounts of filler, very thinly applied, or NONE at all.

[dirtwrench]

Krista-
Some of the best advice I ever got on body work was, "when you get flustered, walk away. Go have a cigarette, glass of iced tea, something. When you come back it will work out better." Patience is the one thing above all else that seems to make body work come out right. Personally I would not wet sand the filled area, but that is mainly because I hate wet sanding. Is the troublesome spot one you can use a longer board on? When I have had trouble making filler disappear, it tends to be places I cant use a long sanding board. Then it becomes a work it, check it, work it, go for coffee kinda thing.

good luck!