I just replaced the clutch in my 69 ford 100 360 V8
Its the old 3 speed on the collumn.I put in a whole new clutch plate,pressure plate and throw out bearing about a month ago and its already starting to not want to shift after driving for 10 -15 min.Is it the whole damn clutch crapping out again?I hope not cause It was only a month or so since i put the new stuff in and it was pretty expensive even though I did it on my own at my high school auto shop.What do you all think?
Yea, I'm thinking your problem may be in the linkage. When you say it doesn't want to shift, do you mean it is grinding gears or do you feel resistance. I'm assuming, since you did the job in shop class, that you torqued the pressure plate property. Anyhow, maybe with a little more info we could give you a better diagnosis.
jor
I know we torqued everything right and cleaned with brake cleaner.I adjusted it today and seems to be doing better.What it would do is grind on reverse and first. Mabye the clutsh fork is the problem.Its the original one.What do you think.And no I didnt replace any clutch linkage bushing.But when I tested it the first day It was working great.
Hmmmm... It sounds as though you did it properly. There isn't much to go wrong with the fork and the throw out bearing is clipped on. Neither 1st nor reverse is synchronized so it's easy to grind into either. It just sounds like the clutch isn't adjusted properly. You should be able to move the clutch pedal down an inch or so without encountering any resistance. This is the free play. If you have much more than an inch, you might just need to back off on your adjustment. Good luck.
jor
adam 138 if you turned the fly wheel ,some times I have had to make the
clutch rod longer, after a fly wheel had a lot removed. Also some times
cab corners that are in bad shape can cause the clutch linkage to (act up ).
Cut ( FOUR ) pieces of an old ford truck frame that has been junked, fit them to the inside of your good frame, add weld and bolts, the leafs are now inboard, time for the (big WIDE tires)!
Jake11 wrote:Ck. the pivot in the bell. Sometimes they come
off.
Or shatter into a dozen pieces, because your supposedly new pressure plate had crappy springs in it that broke and let the fork pivot take all the stress...
It's the thing they riveted to the inside of the bell. The rivets work loose
after, how many years? Anyway, it holds the release fork in place.
Sometimes the rivets finally give up and it falls down. Look in the hole
on the side of the bell with a good light. See if the fork is all cockeyed.
Without digging out a manual, I'd swear the 1st gear on a 3-speed is synchronized. It's the 1st gear on a 4-speed that is not. Is that 3-speed on the tree or on the floor. If it's on the tree, I will say that the issue is with the linkage. I've converted from a column shift to floor shift. Check the linkage adjustment to the 1st and R stud.
1 other item not mentioned in any of the above posts,hard shifting into 1st or reverse can be caused by a bent clutch disc. if the trans install was forced at any time the disc might have been pushed in at the center. This little bit of a bend will keep the outer edge of the disc in contact w/ the pressure plate, turning the input shaft enough to make selecting 1st and reverse difficult.
Also check the condition and level of the gear lube. Might want to change it if has been more then 20K miles. I run 32 oz of Lucas in my truck trannys, T cases, and 1 pint in my diffs topped off w/ the correct gear lube.
