Drum brake adjustment

[Lep6]

Gents - I've got a '67 F100 that's had pretty crappy braking for a while. Pedal travelled to the floor and was always spongy and weak.

So I got it up on a lift nearby and did a brake job. Replaced the master cylinder, front shoes, front drums, and wheel cylinders all around. Wanted to replace the drums and shoes in the back, but got wrong parts from NAPA. Rear shoes and drums were in decent condition, so just left them on there.

Now, we had a hell of a time getting the old front drums to separate from the hub. Also was tough to get the new front drums to seat on the hubs. And, once we got the new drums on, we had to take them back off to double check something, and then put them back on. Had a hell of a time -- used a BF hammer and some wood to pull them off. I've since looked at other threads here and learned that the front drums are supposed to be pressed onto the hubs, which is why the inner radius of the drum fits so tightly around the hub.

The bleed was successful and braking is now great. Except! The truck pulls left on moderate braking -- if I brake hard at 30 mph, it'll pull significantly to the left. I gather that this is caused by incorrectly adjusted brakes -- the left front brakes are too tight, making it pull left. (Right?)

My question for y'all -- do I really need to pound the front drum off, adjust the thumbscrew, pound the drum back on, test drive -- then realize it still ain't right -- then pound he drum off, adjust the thumbscrew... That's a lot of BF Hammering! Any tips?

Thanks

[fordman]

The front drums arent pressed on the hub. They are usually rusted to the front hub. To remove a good drum. Remove the hub and drum as one piece. That way you can inspect and grease wheel bearings.

To adjust brakes there is a rubber plug on back of the backing plate. Remove the plug it gives access to the star adjuster wheel. You use a brake adjuster bar or flat screwdriver to adjust the shoes..

You turn the wheel while adjusting til u hear or feel the shoes rub the drum. Then back them off a little til the wheel turns freely.

[Busboy]

Mine were definitely pressed onto the hubs. The 50 ton shop press was required to remove them and it had to hump up to do it. Yes just remove the wheel bearing nut to remove the hub as an assembly if you need to access the brakes. Never use a big hammer.

[two-bit]

The old front drum dilemma. (This is my way of doing it...Not saying its perfect...just how i do it)
When i set up front drums, i hang both the front wheels off the ground. Tires bolted onto hubs. Drums in place.
Remove oval rubber grommet at the bottom of the backing plate. Fish around in there and find the star wheel.I have a custom bent flat head screw driver for this operation. There is a fancy tool you can buy. I'm cheap, so i made my own. Most times a six inch long or so flat head screwdriver will work fine. If you get it to move. and it makes a clicking noise. You are tightening the front shoes.
If you go the other way and it does not want to move. Then you need a second screwdriver to push in on the adj. stop plate so you can rotate it. that direction will loosen the front shoes.
I put a mark on the inside sidewall of the tire. Usually a wax pencil. rotate front tire by spinning with one hand. I put my hand towards the top and pull down, one time. watch that mark. I adjust my front shoes so that the mark only goes around once or less( say 7/8 of a turn)
I go to the other side and perform the same operation.
The most important thing is to have the same resistance on both front wheels. I do this with out brake pressure on the shoes. Just free rolling tires. Yes the shoes will drag inside on the drums, thats how you know you are getting close!

Your left front MAY NOT be to tight, your right front may be to loose.
Front drums i always take off and on with the hub. I never remove them separate from the hub on the truck.
Somewhere a while back, someone did a really nice write up on front hub/drum assemblies. Since i have been here 8 years....i don't remember where/when it was written.
Fordman was right, use the adjusters, get your brake drag even.
Improperly adj front shoes will also cause pedal travel, and spongy feelings that you can never bleed out...

Careful ! my version of setting front drums has been known to produce "toe" brakes. You will not need to use your whole foot when braking.
I have done this with GMC's, Fords, Mercurys, Buicks, Dodges, and only one Hudson to my credit. They all turned out great. The owners were happy. nobody died. No BFH involved.
Good luck.
Two-bit