Speaking of resurrecting a F100...

[synchros]

(Apologies if this is in the wrong forum, but it seems to be more than just "Engine"...)

My Father-in-Law received a 1969 F100 Ranger in trade for a debt owed. As far as i know, it was driven to where it was parked - 5 years or so ago.

The truck is in western Colorado, and has very little rust. I'd like to do everything I can to get it running while i'm out there in late September. I assume simply putting a charged battery into it and turning the key would not be optimal. VIN plate indicates its a 2WD, has a 360ci 8-cylinder, built in Kansas City in February 1969.

VIN plate picture here.

I'm thinking I'd pull all the plugs and give them a look, check the plug wires, make sure the engine will turn, make sure the clutch is free, transmission is out of gear (its a manual). The vehicle does readily roll, and the brakes do appear to work.

One complication is that this truck has had a dual-fuel conversion done (gasoline and propane). That part does give me some additional concerns. My main objective is to get it running on gasoline. The propane part can go away as far as I'm concerned, though propane doesn't go bad!

I'm not going to over-estimate my skills here, nor will I have my garage and tools. Aside from concerns about old varnished gas, what else should i keep in mind (e.g. How can I pre-lubricate the pistons? ATF down the spark plug holes, really?)

I do have some pictures! The ones from 2017 were taken just before I pulled all that crap out of the bed, which ended up looking pretty solid. Because this truck has spent its whole life in the desert southwest, it only has some minor surface rust, as far as I've seen.

What else should I be looking over? I'll have a week with it to try and get it road-worthy, which in theory should be plenty of time, right?

Right?

[Bill Ramsey]

knowing what I know now, I would pull the valve covers and inspect the pushrods.

They can get stuck from sitting and will bend and/or break a lifter when engine is started.
look to see if valve stem seals are intact. They can disentigrate, pieces get into the gears of the oil pump, the oil pump driveshaft breaks, then no oil to bearings.

I have had both of these happen to me with old engines.

Also, I would install a temporary mechanical oil pressure gauge to the engine to make sure of oil pressure when starting. i made one from an old gauge and an old brake hose i use just for this.

[Bill Ramsey]

Also, oil on dipstick will look like its clean. the dirt settled to the bottom of the pan, thats all.

[sargentrs]

If you plan on driving it, I'd focus some attention on the basic fluids and hoses. Change the oil and filter, coolant, inspect all your hoses, radiator, fuel lines, power steering if you have it. Count on rebuilding your carburetor and install a clear fuel filter with a paper element between the fuel pump and carb. Drain your gas tank and put some fresh gas in it. I'd see if it'll run on propane and eliminate the whole gas fuel system at first. You probably have a lot of sediment in the tank.

[synchros]

It lives! Got it running today, and I drove it about 40 feet. It needs tires at a minimum - driver's side rear tire is really bad. Haven't yet really given the brakes much of a test, but getting the engine running (and it seems to run very well and smoothly) is really satisfying.

Now that I've been going over it more closely, the truck really seems to be in good shape. Starter is good, engine sounds good, electrics seem fine (even the AM/FM stereo/8-track sounds decent), all the lights are working, battery is charging and the HVAC blower works well. I'm hoping with a set of tires this truck will be pretty close to road-worthy, or at least more ready for a trip to its next owner.

Thanks much for all your assistance. Anyone interested in buying this old girl?

[synchros]

What do you think this 1969 F100 Ranger it is worth?

Excepting for side rails, propane conversion and some light cosmetic items), the truck is basically unmodified. As it has lived its entire life in the arid Southwest, there is basically no rust. It is an excellent candidate for full refurbishment - or, with some basic maintenance on it as-is, a good daily.

What say ye?

[synchros]

Resurrecting my own post for a followup...

I got the truck running again at the end of June, and have taken care of a number of things - new battery, removed propane lines, replaced tires, carb rebuild, oil/filter change, radiator/heater hose replacement, coolant change, fuel filter and a tuneup.

Now I'm debating whether to ship it to me in Northern Virginia, or to sell it where it is (Western Colorado)....

[jzjames]

How is it? Rust free with all that potential, ship it, or drive it.

[sargentrs]

If you intend to sell it you'll probably get more out in Colorado. Here in my area, an unrestored truck like ours, won't fetch $2500. Mine only had 160k on the clock and it was in pretty decent shape and he was only asking $1500. I actually traded a ricer for it. If you like it, keep it. I might even consider driving it home if it's running good.

[sparky72]

Drive it or ship it. They aren’t making any more of them...