Hi guys,
Ripped apart all my wiring harnesses and re-did everything from the engine bay cause it was awful. My truck starts today which I was happy about, but I really hate that old nasty Fuse Box sitting there. I tried looking at diagrams but I had spliced in wires in the fuses coming directly from battery and it was a little ugly and messy. I was wondering if anyone has a better diagram of the fuse box. The one on the website are all split based on different connections and its a little confusing to trace because not all of my wire colors match up. I was wondering if you guys can tell me what components need a Hot signal directly from battery into the fuse box (some of the writing i saw was like wipers, cargo light, dome, heater, etc) and which ones need a signal from the ACC. I want to completely get rid of the box, but I just am not sure what to do right now, I do have a new fuse box that I bought that will be powering my Radio, Amp, Speakers, Lock System.
Also my Voltage Gauge would always fluctuate. I ended up tracing the wire I spliced into and it came directly from the battery. My battery constantly reads 14.65 Volts so i don't think its a problem anywhere there and my Voltage Regulator seems relatively new. I have an aftermarket Speed Hut Voltage Gauge. Is there a specific wire I should draw the signal from that's better?
Almost done tidying up the wires so I'll post the before and after pics of the engine bay and the fuse box once its all wired up! Thanks for all the help pretty new to electrical!
-Crazz
Questions regarding Voltage Gauge & Fuse Box Wiring
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Questions regarding Voltage Gauge & Fuse Box Wiring
Figuring out this whole restoring process with my 68' F100.
- basketcase0302
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Re: Questions regarding Voltage Gauge & Fuse Box Wiring
The best $18.00 I ever spent on the truck, (even though what you've pulled out from under the hood wouldn't apply anymore).
I kept mine rolled up and stored in the glovebox for those times when the truck decided to quit running on the open road.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-68-Ford-F ... 546d25cf21
I kept mine rolled up and stored in the glovebox for those times when the truck decided to quit running on the open road.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-68-Ford-F ... 546d25cf21
Jeff
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=46251
SOLD-71 F-350 dually flatbed, 302 / .030 over V-8 with a "baby"C-6, B & M truckshifter, Dana70/4.11 ratio, intermittent wipers, tilt steering, full LED lighting on the flat bed, and no stereo yet (this way I can hear the rattles to diagnose)! SOLD!
Many Ford bumps / one 76' EB / and several dents through the years.
A lot of "oddball" Ford parts collected from working on them for 34 years now!
2008 Ford Escape 4 x 4
- sargentrs
- 100% FORDified!
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Re: Questions regarding Voltage Gauge & Fuse Box Wiring
Another consideration https://youtu.be/s7npq2HVszM
Randy
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.
1970 F100 Sport Custom Limited LWB, 302cid, 3 on the tree. NO A/C, NO P/S, NO P/B. Currently in 1000 pcs while rebuilding. Project thread: http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... 22&t=59995 Plan: 351w, C4, LSD, pwr front disc, p/s, a/c, bucket seats, new interior and paint.
1987 F-150 XLT Lariat, 5.0/C6 auto.