No gauge cluster lights

[Mikehess73184]

Hi I’m trying to figure out why I don’t have any instrument panel lights. All my gauges work and my turn signal indicator lights work. I have replaced me headlight switch, instrument panel fuse, turn signal switch. The fuse at the panel shows 12v. The bulbs on the instrument panel look good. What else should I be looking for? What could cause this? Thanks

[basketcase0302]

="Mikehess73184" Hi I’m trying to figure out why I don’t have any instrument panel lights. All my gauges work and my turn signal indicator lights work. I have replaced me headlight switch, instrument panel fuse, turn signal switch. The fuse at the panel shows 12v. The bulbs on the instrument panel look good. What else should I be looking for? What could cause this? Thanks

What year is the truck to start with Mike, (the later bump era used a printed circuit board that goes bad-the earlier uses sockets for the bulbs.

And don't think for a minute that the new switch you got isn't bad, (I've gotten more than one bump/dent era switch over the years that was faulty right out of the box. Country of origin on your new switch?

If you're looking at the back of the switch the spring is the dimmer function of it, make sure the set of points it touching that spring to start.

Do you have a voltage meter to test?

[Mikehess73184]

Oh sorry I forgot to add that part, it’s a 76 highboy with the printed circuit board. I do have a multi meter I will check the headlight switch. I haven’t looked where it’s from probably China. Im stuck at work for next 2 days but I plan on cleaning the circuit board and sanding the prongs on the lightbulbs. Could a bad voltage regulator on the back of the instrument panel also cause light issues? Thanks for the advice

[basketcase0302]

You'll want to look real hard at the connector on the printed circuit board, (my experience with them was that was usually where all issues started on the instrument panels that have them). And make sure you don't work the cluster "hot" (ask me why) as you'll short circuit / easily ground the board chancing doing even more damage. We won't have a wiring diagram here for the dent era trucks but the 72' can be used as a "flow chart":



And here's the 70'-72' cluster to get you close on what the back of it should look like, (you're on the right track cleaning the bulb contacts where they twist into the board-but I never found that to be the issue if all the lights there aren't working). Try to test for power at each socket on the circuit board, (with it pulled forward) this will tell you if the issue is downstream or not).



You can also easily test for voltage supply and leaving the IPVR, (Instrument Panel Voltage Regulator) with the cluster pulled forward.

[tsherry]

I've worked on a NUMBER of these problem areas on my Fords over the years. I've been able to pull the connector to the printed circuit, and usually discovered that both the circuit and the connector have corrosion or tarnish on them. Cleaned them up with a small Dremel buffing wheel and restored function to the printed circuit. Usually upgraded to LED lamps at the same time, which is one of the best upgrades I've ever done.

You should also pull the fuses from the fuse box, (and disconnect the battery!) and use a small Dremel wire wheel or buffer on the fuse contacts.

[6Delta]

I have had real good luck using a cleaner called Detoxit. It cleaned off the connections on the last circuit board I did (on a 70 Ranchero) without hardly any work at all. Spray it on and wipe it off. Worked real well. Good luck.