The Junkyard Grab List (1967-1972)‎

[FORDification]

Body & Sheetmetal
Good rust-free factory sheetmetal is always in need. While you can buy aftermarket reproductions of certain items, the imported sheetmetal is usually of a thinner gauge and not quite as sturdy. There's no substitute for OEM steel! If it's serviceable, it's sellable!

Cab - While obviously not something you're going to just happen to bring home from a salvage yard, clean rustfree cabs are the holy grail of Ford pickups. These tend to rust out in the following places: front cab mounts, front floorpans, upper windshield drip-rail area and lower rear cab corners. You should also check for rust along the bottom of the interior kick panel area and front of the rocker panel area on each side.
Rear Bed (Box) - After the cab, obviously one of the next most sought-after items. These tend to rust out most in the box seam (along the sides) and the bed floor. SWB beds are in very high demand, and any parts for a SWB flareside bed are also money-makers. Steel patch panels are available for styleside bed floors, as are wood kits for flareside bed floors.
Door - Check for rust along the bottom lip. Doors without multiple mirror mounting holes are better than ones with holes from several different mirror styles added by previous owners.
Fenders - These tend to rust along along the rear (along the door gap) and especially down in the lower rear corner, and along the upper rear (on top, where the hood sets). If there's no rust, grab it! Minor dings are OK, but if the fender has body filler, skip it. Available aftermarket, but reproductions are thinner-gauge steel and not as desireable.
Inner Fenders (Aprons) - While these are available through aftermarket sources, the metal isn't as thick as OEM. Inner fender aprons tend to rust out by the hood hinges and are eaten away by battery corrosion under the battery tray, so if you find one still intact, it's definitely worth the time to remove and save/resell. If you happen to find a Camper Special with a left-side battery tray, definitely save it. These aren't being reproduced and are hard to find.
Radiator Support - Reproduction core supports are available, but pricey. Good OEM supports are definitely worth saving.
Grille - Always highly sought-after. The '67-'69 grilles are always a prize if unbent. '70-'72 grille shells are worth saving, as well as the plastic inserts, although reproduction inserts are available. Be sure to grab the headlight bezels.
Lower Valance Panel - The steel valance panel between the grille and the bumper tends to rusted-out and/or beat up over time. There are two styles: '67-'69 and '70-'72. Not available in the aftermarket.
Aluminum Trim - Reproductions for side trim are available, but are pricey. Side trim in very good condition is usually a good seller, especially if you can get a full matched set. All trim is held on with a nut on each end and clips in the middle. Don't worry about saving the clips/retainers. Chrome windshield and rear window trim are always good sellers, as is the chrome driprail molding if it can be removed without damage (just use the flat end of a common bottle-opener). Often rear cab 2-tone trim is worth snagging as well.
Emblems - Certain emblems are definitely worth taking the few seconds to pull. These include the more "rare" ones, such as Camper Special, Custom Cab, Explorer, 390 badges, and possibly Ranger emblems. They fetch quite a bit of money for being so easy to pull and commonly very cheap at junkyards. Many emblems are available in the aftermarket, but some aren't.
Tailgate - Available aftermarket, but thinner gauge steel. These tend to rust out along the bottom lip and are usually dented across the top lip. Rust-free/dent-free OEM tailgates are getting scarce. Tailgate appliques are (usually) riveted on and highly desirable if dent-free, and are not available in the aftermarket. Tailgate straps never fail, but the hinges are worth saving if not rusted. The latch mechanisms and rods can be saved, but they rarely fail.
Hood - Hoods are something you probably won't worry about if you're in a junkyard scavenging parts. They're big and heavy and not worth the hassle of shipping. However, if you've got a place to store some parts, you might consider it. These aren't available in the aftermarket and are worth something to the right buyer, although you might have to hold onto it for a while trying to find him.
Spare Tire Mount - There are two versions of spare tire mounts. One holds the spare inside the bed, the second holds the tire up under the rear of the bed. Both are definite keepers, as well as all attaching hardware.
Mirrors - Some mirrors are definately worth grabbing. These include the big 3-mount West coast mirrors. If the hardware is in fair, un-rusted condition then the mirrors can fetch hundreds of dollars.
Bumpers - Front bumper replacements are available through the aftermarket, though typically not as rugged. Painted front bumpers can be useful to someone building a de-chromed custom. Rear step bumpers are useful, but are way too heavy to even consider shipping. The rear Sport bumper, which looks similar to the front bumper, can also be found in the aftermarket as well as reproduction mounting brackets, but many buyers prefer the OEM rear brackets.
Underbed Toolbox - Fairly sought-after as an add-on by customizers for trucks not equipped with one. You'll need the door, the toolbox itself, and at least 6 inches of sheetmetal around the perimeter of the door, to allow a buyer to splice it into an existing bed.

Frame
There really isn't much of a market for truck frames by themselves, especially for LWB 2WD. However, frames for crewcabs, SWB 2WD and any 4WD should never be scrapped. Many truck owners want to convert their 2WD trucks to 4WD or their LWB to SWB, so a rolling chassis (frame/steering/suspension)is definitely worth some money to the right buyer. With a little patience and some online advertising, it shouldn't be too hard to find a buyer...especially if you strip off the sheetmetal for him and just give him the rolling chassis. It'll save him a lot of work transferring his existing body onto the new frame.

Interior
Instrument Panel (Cluster) - Every truck has one, and normally the plastic bezels are pretty faded and/or cracked. Steel instrument panels on '67-'69 trucks are worth saving, but those with plastic bezels probably won't sell unless they're in tip-top shape. Ranger panels with woodgrain trim in good condition might be worth saving. Plastic instrument panel bezels are available aftermarket, but are pricey. Some '70-'72 panels might be worth saving if the flexible circuit board on the back is in good shape. If you intend to try selling a complete instrument panel and aren't saving the donor truck's wiring harness, be sure to save the instrument panel plug and about 6" of wiring past it.
Seat - Don't worry about them, unless the factory covers are in superb shape. Otherwise, the only thing worth saving will be the seatback medallions, if so equipped. Just cut them out with a box cutter. You might find a truck with factory Mustang-style bucket seats, but don't hold your breath. However, the seat brackets for these highly sought-after. Also, trucks equipped with bucket seats have a carpet fuel tank cover and matching chrome strip which are also high-dollar items.
Steel interior door panels (1967-1970) that are unmolested are sought after to replace speaker holes cut out by previous owners. The chrome panel trim rings are worth saving, but be sure to save all the trim clips. '71-'72 fiberboard door panels are usually warped with peeling chrome accent strips, so if you find any that aren't, grab 'em.
Dashpad - If it's uncracked, save it! These are held onto the steel dash with small tin nuts and are worth the trouble of removing. Be careful, as they might be brittle, but if uncracked they can be saved. The speaker grilles are typically broken out. Reproductions are available, but fit and appearance isn't as good as OEM, so good-condition OEM dashpads can easily fetch high prices on E-bay.
Steering Wheel - Uncracked OEM steering wheels are getting hard to find. Wheels with large cracks probably aren't worth saving, but small micro-cracks shouldn't deter you from saving it. Horn rings and buttons are worth saving, especially the '67-only chrome ring. 1968-'71 rings are pot metal and worth saving if not pitted. '71-'72 horn pad and assembly is worth saving.
Steering Column - Steering columns for use with power steering are very sought after by owners wishing to upgrade to power steering. Don't leave it behind! Three-speed columns are a very sought-after item, even if it's only for parts. Four-speed columns (with no shifter linkage provisions) are sought after for owners wanting to convert to a floor shift setup. Be sure to mark the donor truck's info on the column with a grease pencil. (Year, power/manual)
Dash Trim - Rangers dashes have a woodgrain applique panel behind the dash switches, one on each side of the steering column, and are held on by the switches. If they're in good shape, they're a keeper. Also, some Rangers have a chrome trim strip which extends from the instrument panel, over and around the glovebox and then back down along the lower dash. These are definitely worth saving with all the retaining clips.
Floor Mat - While it's highly unlikely you'll find an original rubber floormat in good shape, if you do...save it! The most-desirable versions are the full width mat with a lightning-bolt insignia on the center hump.
Glovebox Door - Probably not worth saving, since all trucks have one and they're rarely damaged. However, if you find one with an Explorer or Ranger emblem, save it. Cardboard glovebox inserts are available inexpensively via the aftermarket.
Radio/Speaker - If you find a '71-'72 AM/FM radio, you've hit the jackpot...very rare. Save it, regardless of it's condition. AM radios can be saved if in good condition, and radio delete plates are definitely a keeper. Even if the radio is missing, don't overlook the radio bezel (if it remains). Uncut bezels that aren't pitted are worth saving, as are dash speakers with intact cones.
Rearview Mirrors - The '67-only mirrors are sought after, especially the chrome versions, but the '68-up windshield-mounted mirrors aren't that special.
Sunvisors - ALL '67-'72 sunvisors are off-white and are usually in good shape, so there's no demand for them. However, '67-'68 sunvisors have a smaller rearview mirror clearance notch, and are worth saving if they're accompanied with the narrow '67 rearview mirror and sold as a matched set. Some visor parks are chrome and should be saved. Plastic versions can be saved if in great condition.
Headliner and Trim - The OEM cardboard headliner in most trucks is warped, so if you find one in good shape it's worth saving, though shipping something this large could be cost-prohibitive. Chrome headliner trim is sought-after if not pitted. The painted headliner trim found in early and entry-level trucks probably isn't a fast-moving item.
Brake Warning Light - The brake warning light on the lower left of the dash is often missing or the red lens is cracked, so it's a keeper if one is found in good condition. Just unplug it from the main harness.
Heater Assembly - Probably not worth much, since the blower motor and heater core are both available from the aftermarket, and the plastic heater box usually doesn't get damaged. '67 trucks with an Economy heater are semi-rare and the heater box on these should be saved.

Mechanical

Engine
Engine Perches - Most trucks have FE/I6 perches and aren't sought after, except for the special left-side perch on V8 trucks with power steering. However, small-block perches are in high demand.
Pulleys - Always save pulleys, especially from trucks equipped with power steering and/or A/C. Be sure to immediately mark them with a grease pencil as to the donor engine, for easier ID later.
Exhaust Manifolds - While these can be found in the aftermarket, they're pricey. Good used manifolds can sell well, if they're thoroughly checked for cracks...something that they're all very susceptible to. Manifolds with A.I.R. provisions aren't worth saving, but a right-side manifolds with an in-tact hot-air choke provision is.
Radiator - Standard radiators are usually replaced with new aftermarket units, though the larger 4-row Super Cooling radiators are definitely worth saving. Though rare, if the truck is equipped with a factory radiator overflow tank, you'll want to save the plastic tank and mounting bracket.

Transmission & Clutch
Clutch Linkage - Valuable to someone wanting to swap from an automatic to manual transmission, and easily removable. Get the Z-bar, frame pivot bracket, engine pivot bracket and the rod to the clutch pedal.
Bellhousing - Bellhousings are something that don't sell well, but when someone wants one, they want it. Small-block/I6 bellhousings are better sellers than FE versions. Be sure to save the inspection cover and clutch fork.
Transmission - All transmissions are worth saving, either for parts or as a complete assembly. While you're probably not going to bring one home from a salvage yard for resale, if you're parting out a truck, somebody's going to want the transmission, regardless of the type. Of the two granny-gear transmissions, the NP-435 is more desirable than the T18. The T-98 3.03 3-spd overdrive transmission is a treasure, providing you get all the necessary hardware, including the dash-mounted actuating cable, throttle linkage, firewall-mounted control box and associated wiring. The standard 3.03 3-spd. can be a treasure to the right person as well. C-6 and C-4 automatics are always good sellers, especially if you can assure the buyer that it's in good shape. The earlier FX transmissions probably are worth saving if you have storage space, but don't expect an immediate buyer. Most truck owners would probably prefer 'upgrading' to a C-6/C-4 if their FX is in need of a rebuild, due to more readily-available (cheaper) parts.
Transmission Crossmember - Every truck has one, and they're virtually all the same. Since they never get damaged, you'd probably be storing this for a while trying to find an interested buyer.
Driveshaft(s) - Driveshafts do get ruined, and truck owners are constantly making drivetrain changes and then looking for the driveshaft that will bolt in. When removing it from the donor truck, be sure to mark it with the engine/transmission/rearend variety for easier identification in the future.

Rearend
Ford 9-inch - (F-100) Always worth saving. The 9" isn't being produced anymore, but many aftermarket companies are converting the housings to fit into other non-Ford high-performance vehicles. If you've got the room to start a stockpile of housings, it'll eventually pay off. However, in a junkyard setting, all you'd be interested in is the removable pumpkin. (Be sure to save the aluminum ID tag with the pumpkin, if it's still in place!) Obviously, a limited-slip setup is highly sought-after. Most will be 28-spline axles, though you might hit the jackpot by finding a '71-'72 with 31-spline axles, and if you do, you need to at least save the axle shafts....they're very rare.
Dana 60 - Some '68-'69 F100s are equipped with a semi-floating 5-lug Dana 60 and are worth saving. Standard F250 Dana 60's are full-floater and almost indestructible, so they're not in high demand unless equipped with limited slip. You might also find a late-60's F100 with a Dana 44 rearend, and probably isn't worth the trouble of saving unless it's fitted with a limited slip.

Steering
Truck owners are always wanting to convert to power steering, so if your donor truck is equipped as such, then you definitely need to save the steering column and the power steering pump mounting brackets. Be sure to also save the steering column firewall mounting bracket, as they're different from manual-steering versions. Steering boxes and steering pumps/lines are readily available, so there's probably not much market for those items, but the steering pump cooler should be saved, as well as the steering box's Pitman arm. Some trucks up through '69 might be equipped with a Bendix steering box, and this box should be saved, as well as the matching steering column. (The steering column shaft is a special length for the Bendix box.)
If you were to assemble a complete power steering kit for a potential buyer, it would include the steering box, steering column, power steering pump with mounting brackets, cooler and lines, and the engine pulleys. Be sure to mark the kit as to the donor truck's engine family, since the brackets won't interchange among engine families.
Some F250/350 4WD trucks are equipped with a power-assist power steering setup. While they're not the most trouble-free, they're definitely worth saving for parts.

Brakes
By far, the most popular upgrade done to a base-level truck is to install power disc brakes. F100s weren't equipped with disc brakes until '73, so if you find an earlier F100 with discs, it's been swapped in by a previous owner. However, some F250/350 trucks are equipped with factory disc setups, and are definitely worth saving. A complete disc brake 'kit' will include the steering spindle (knuckle) and everything out, as well as the matching I-beams (since the kingpin diameter was different among certain GVW trucks) and proportioning valve (not the distribution block). The easiest way to remove the setup is to simply drop the entire front suspension, something you can do in 30-45 minutes with basic hand tools. Be sure to tag the assembly with the donor vehicle's year and GVW (found on the VIN tag on the driver's door), to make it easier for a buyer to locate replacement parts.

Vacuum-assist power brake boosters are readily available, but they are not equipped with the necessary mounting brackets, so power booster brackets should always be saved from a parts truck! If you were going to market a 'kit', you'll want to also save the vacuum supply hose and firewall clamp, as well as the nipple on the intake manifold.

Fuel
Fuel Tank - In-cab - You'll find that at most larger salvage yards, fuel tanks are often punctured as a quick means of draining remaining fuel. In-cab fuel tanks are available in the aftermarket, but if you're able to look down inside one that's not punctured and able to determine that it's not rusted/corroded inside, it might be worth saving. However, it's against Federal regulations to ship a used fuel tank.
Fuel Tank - Factory Auxiliary - Ford offered a 25-gallon auxiliary fuel tank that sits on the driver's side, inside the frame rail. These are highly sought-after by truck owners wishing to remove their in-cab tank and use the auxiliary tank as a primary. Removing the whole setup can be time-consuming, but will be worth it. It's probably not something that can easily be done in a commercial salvage lot however, since several of the necessary brackets are riveted to the frame, and most salvage lots won't allow cutting torches. You'll need to grab the tank, skid plate, all frame mounting brackets, the special front crossmember AND the special longer front parking brake cable and cable equalizer. This cable runs from the parking brake pedal back to the middle frame crossmember, where the equalizer is located. This special equalizer is necessary to clear the tank. To make it a complete 'kit', you'll also need the tank selector valve (located beside the seat on the driver's side) the underdash electrical gauge selector switch and all accompanying wiring.
Fuel Tank - Dealer Add-on - There are several versions of auxiliary fuel tanks that are dealer add-ons. These might be desirable as a complete kit, but since there are many different versions that are no longer being produced, the 'kit' would have to be complete. The two most-common dealer add-ons include:
- The tank(s) is/are mounted on the outside of the frame rail and hang down from the bottom of the bed. There's an aluminum access door on the outside of the box. (Even if you don't get the whole tank setup, at least grab the aluminum door, if in serviceable condition.)
- The tank(s) is/are mounted just inside the rear wheelwell(s). Be sure to grab all attaching hardware. Don't worry about fuel lines, and these tanks don't include sending units, so there's no wiring to be concerned about.

Another thing to watch for are trucks with the in-cab fuel tank delete option that used the 25-gallon auxiliary tank as the primary tank. The truck might be (or have been) equipped with a behind-the-seat storage box...a highly sought-after option. Even if the storage box has been removed or is no longer serviceable, the rear inside cab hold-down plates are special to these trucks, and should be saved.

Suspension
There really isn't a lot of suspension components that are in demand. Some heavier GVW trucks come factory-equipped with add-on helper leaves that are desireable, as well as the accompanying frame-mounted spring stops. While springs to tend to sag over time, it's always advisable to replace worn springs with new, rather than used. However, the larger spring packs on heavier GVW trucks are usually in better condition than F100 versions and might be worth saving if you've got the room to store them until a buyer can be found. If you're saving front coil springs, be sure to tag them 'left' or 'right', as they're different. You might consider saving the lower front shock absorber brackets that are riveted onto the radius arms, as these have been known to break (you'll have to grind the rivet heads off and drive them out with a punch). Also, the back end of the radius arms are prone to rust and corrosion where it goes through the rubber bushing, so if you're disassembling a truck and find some radius arms that show no signs of deep corrosion or flaky rust, they're worth saving.

Some trucks, especially Camper Specials, might be equipped with front and/or rear sway bars. These are definitely keepers, as long as you can keep all the attaching hardware. Some trucks have strange front swaybars that extend between the radius arms, and these aren't high in demand. However, if you decide to save this setup, be sure to save the radius arms with the swaybar, as regular radius arms cannot be 'converted' to use the swaybar, so it's only value is as a set.

Electrical
Wiring harness(es) - After 40+ years and dozens of owners, the most common victim of 'backyard repair' is the wiring. If a donor truck has an unmolested wiring harness, it's a gold mine to the right buyer. However, you'll quickly reduce it's value by 2/3 by cutting any wire. When removing a wiring harness DO NOT CUT ANY WIRE! Unplug it at the various connectors and snake them out as required. Underdash and underhood wiring harnesses should be kept together as a set, since trucks with a factory ammeter had a completely different harness than trucks equipped with idiot lights. Be sure to tag the harness with the year of the donor truck, whether it's equipped with full instrumentation or idiot lights, and any factory add-ons, such as A/C, auxiliary tank, electric choke, etc.
Also, the rear wiring harness (back to the taillights) is something commonly hacked-up by previous owners. If the rear wiring harness is in good shape, definitely save it.
Instrument Panel - (see Interior)
Cargo Lamp - Mounted at the top rear of the cab. This is a nice upgrade for someone if the pot-metal housing isn't pitted.
License Plate Lights - Factory lights in Sport or step bumpers can bring in a few dollars to someone with damaged or corroded lights. NOS versions can get $50+ per pair on E-bay.
Clearance Lights - OEM cab clearance lights are a cool upgrade to some, though reproductions are available. If the orange lenses are in good shape, at least save those. Some Camper Specials came with front fender-mounted Dietz clearance lights, and these should always be saved. '70-'72 beds have rear bed markers at the end of the bump, but the lenses are available aftermarket, so no market for used ones.
In-Dash Electrical Switches
Emergency Flasher Switch - The '67-'69 toggle-type switch and mounting bracket is usually located in the glovebox and can be ruined if care isn't used when disconnecting it from the main wiring harness, which happens frequently. Therefore, OEM switches are fairly sought-after. The '70-'72 in-dash switch rarely fails, but can be used to replace the earlier version.
Headlight Switch - Replacements available from the local parts store. If the knob is in good shape, you can save the knob and stalk by pushing the release bottom top of the switch and pulling the knob/stalk out.
Cargo Lamp Switch - Definitely a keeper, needed by truck owners installing a factory-style cargo lamp.
Wiper Motor Switch - Rarely (if ever) goes out. Maybe save spare or two, but it's doubtful you'll never need it.
Lighter & Socket - Worth saving, especially if the lighter knob is in good shape and the lighter socket is equipped with a clip-on nightlight.
Ignition Switch - Readily available at the parts store, not worth saving. However, the bezel is something that should be saved if not damaged.