The "Krusty Kab"

[IN2FORD]

I got all of the fuel line installed. I had planned on going with the nylon fuel line and it makes the most sense with the quick disconnects but I could not get the quick disconnect at the tank. My tank has 1/4" npt fittings and Dorman does not offer any npt fittings with quick disconnect. So I ended up switching to rubber. I think the nylon is the way to go considering price and reliability. I picked up the Gates Barricade EFI hose rated at 225 psi and its good for the junky fuel we have these days too. I am running 3/8 feed and 5/16 return with a Motorcraft fuel filter for a 2006 Explorer. I chose that filter because its rated for EFI and it is 3/8 in and out.I found a universal filter/pump bracket on Ebay that is aluminum for $14. Perfect size for the filter. Also picked up some stainless clamps off of ebay that holds 3/8 and 5/16 line together. They are sized for metal lines not rubber so I just opened up the clamps with my vise and they worked fine. I also started on brake lines. I am using the copper/nickel 3/16. If everything goes right the cab should be on in a week











Barry

[Dave Severson]

Just went through this thread, some really quality work on the project, coming together great! Should be a great street pounder when you're all done!

[IN2FORD]

Thanks Dave!!

Ran into a little problem tonight. I was sanding on the passenger rear cab corner because I some a couple of bubbles. Sanded it back and found a couple of pretty good rust holes. I am a rookie mig welder trying to spot weld the holes. One I will need to patch. I am terrible at this but got to learn sometime right?


Barry

[IN2FORD]

I painted the firewall last night. Turned out fine.






Barry

[IN2FORD]

Got the rusted panel out today.





Barry

[IN2FORD]

This is how it sits right now with the exception of I have begun to install the booster and master cylinder.



Fabbed up a bracket for my proportioning valve.











I tore down the 351W roller motor and dropped it off at the machine shop this morning. He said things looked good for an easy rebuild but would verify with some measurements.



I stuck my gauges in just to see if I like them or mot. Not sure what I am going to do. I thought about just finding an empty panel like this and use some aftermarket gauges. Not sure yet.



Barry

[IN2FORD]

Finished fabbing the American Powertrain Hydraulic clutch setup. I had a local shop cut a 1/4" piece of steel to make the drop down so it can push the master cylinder.I drew a grid on it just so that I can get an idea where the bolt hole needs to go.







Drilled a 1" hole in the firewall and in it goes.







Bolted in the brake hydroboost master cylinder rod while I was under there as well. now onto installing the column and figure out what wiring harness I am going with.

Barry

[theletup]

Hey Barry. Nice looking work man!

One quick thing that's easy to fix now and going to save you a big head ache later: Your lower ball joints are pressed in upside down. The steering knuckle should connect to the bottom side of the control arm with your ball joint snap ring on top. (Ball joint presses in from the bottom up)

[theletup]

Also where your crown vic monuts to the frame you need 5/8" more material so your top brackets sit flush instead of angled down. That will keep them from coming loose and your front suspension from shifting. You can do this easily with some 5/8" aluminum flat bar cut to length and drilled to match your brackets and just sandwich them between the top of your frame and the top brackets on the crown vic subframe mounts.

(Tried to look closer on my phone but the pics are hard to see.. maybe there is spacers there. I will leave the comment here just incase.)

As for the MIG welding on the sheet metal I like to use a .023 hard wire with shielding gas. Keep your welds short and sweet and let everything cool between welds. It's like tack cool tack cool tack cool tack cool tack cool move to a different area repeat. This will keep your metal from warping. The only way to learn is to go for it. Maybe practice on some scrap first.


Good job man. Hope that helps

[IN2FORD]

Ball joints are fine. They can only come in from the top. Look at others on Google images. Just like mine. Also the brackets are level with the frame. The top of them slant down because that's the way they are made but if you look at the bottom of the bracket compared to the frame...they are level. There is 5/8's piece of metal under the bracket.

Barry

[theletup]

Ball joints are fine. They can only come in from the top. Look at others on Google images. Just like mine. Also the brackets are level with the frame. The top of them slant down because that's the way they are made but if you look at the bottom of the bracket compared to the frame...they are level. There is 5/8's piece of metal under the bracket.

Barry

I apologize Barry. Didn't mean to come off as a know-it-all. I just wanted to help a fellow bump owner. Ford must be pressing their's in backwards from the factory?

Picture of a Moog Lower control arm from the bottom.


That's why your upper control arm is sitting at an up angle.

The pre-2003 ball joints did press in from the bottom so maybe those are the pics you have seen.



Build on friend.

[IN2FORD]

No problem at all. You made me think about it though. I looked to make sure but there is no way for it to press in from the bottom. Always good to have someone looking over your shoulder on stuff like this. First big build for me. I have done many cars with bolt on stuff but first to change things this much.

Barry

[theletup]

Barry. The pic of the control arm show that your ball joints are absolutely supposed to press up from the bottom. I promise you. That pic I posted is the bottom of a control arm showing that it in fact presses in from the bottom. If you don't press your lower ball joints back out and flip them around you're going to have steering issues. Look how close your tie rod is to your sway bar. It's not supposed to be like that. Look how your upper control arms are angled up. They're not supposed to be like that. That tapered part of your steering knuckle where you have the nut tightened down is supposed to be mated to the tapered spacer that smashes between the ball joint to keep it centered and so it doesn't come loose.

I own an auto repair shop and have been master certified for 10 years. I promise I'm right on this one. I don't mean to be pushy but your truck could be dangerous if you don't have your front suspension installed correctly.

I will take some pics of mine tomorrow to show you

[IN2FORD]

Now I get it. The ball joint should be flipped upside down and the spindle mounts under the control arm not above the bottom control arm. That explains an issue I could not figure out. GOT IT! Thank you!!! Time to disassemble and reassemble.

Barry

[theletup]

Now I get it. The ball joint should be flipped upside down and the spindle mounts under the control arm not above the bottom control arm. That explains an issue I could not figure out. GOT IT! Thank you!!! Time to disassemble and reassemble.

Barry

Excited to watch the rest of your build!