All,
My rear brakes just started to make odd whirring noises when I push hard on my pedal. I figure that I probably have a cracked shoe. Unfortunately, I have rear floating axles, so I have to disassemble just about everything to get inside my brakes. So, if I have to dig in, I'll go ahead and replace the shoes and hardware while I'm checking things out.
A few years ago, someone posted their experience with their rebuild, but I can't find it. Does anyone remember that post? Does anyone have a link? I've tried to search, but I can't find anything. If nobody knows the post I'm thinking of, does anyone have words of wisdom for dealing with the rear axle?
Thanks,
Joseph
Help Needed on Rear Brake Rebild, '67 F250 Camper Special
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- colnago
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Help Needed on Rear Brake Rebild, '67 F250 Camper Special
"Sugar", my 1967 Ford F250 2WD Camper Special, 352FE, Ford iron "T" Intake with 1405 Edelbrock, Duraspark II Ignition, C6 transmission, front disc brake conversion.
- 1972hiboy
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Re: Help Needed on Rear Brake Rebild, '67 F250 Camper Special
Good Morning. Alot of the times a rubbing noise can be heard from hard application is the parking brake cable rubbing on the inside of the brake drum so watch for indications of this when you remove everything.I dont have any pics for reference but I can give you a pretty good idea of what you will be doing.
with the truck up on stands and the wheels off.
The brake drums are pressed onto the rear hub assembliy via the wheel lugs, so this needs to be removed in one piece.
- loosen all the 9/16 bolts that attach the axle shaft itself to the hub. the axle will then simply slip out. Put a pan under the hub because gear oil in some quantities will come spilling out.
- when you look into the hub you will see the outter lock nut and you will see some metal tabs bent over the outter lock nut and inner lock nut. you will have to carefully take a small chisel and ball peel hammer and massage these tabs up to allow the outter lock nut to rotate.
- Once the tabs are lifted to free the outter lock nut you will need a 2-9/16 socket. Loosen the outter lock nut and set off to the side. pull the lock plate out. This will be the large washer looking deal in between the two nuts with the metal tabs built into it.
_ once the lock plate is removed use the socket again to loosen the inner lock nut. the outter wheel bearing will come out after this and the brake drum/hub will slide off.
Then you can do your visual inspection of everything. If you do deciede to replace the brake shoes you should really remove the drums and get them machined/ replaced inner hub seals and clean and relube the bearings etc.
with the truck up on stands and the wheels off.
The brake drums are pressed onto the rear hub assembliy via the wheel lugs, so this needs to be removed in one piece.
- loosen all the 9/16 bolts that attach the axle shaft itself to the hub. the axle will then simply slip out. Put a pan under the hub because gear oil in some quantities will come spilling out.
- when you look into the hub you will see the outter lock nut and you will see some metal tabs bent over the outter lock nut and inner lock nut. you will have to carefully take a small chisel and ball peel hammer and massage these tabs up to allow the outter lock nut to rotate.
- Once the tabs are lifted to free the outter lock nut you will need a 2-9/16 socket. Loosen the outter lock nut and set off to the side. pull the lock plate out. This will be the large washer looking deal in between the two nuts with the metal tabs built into it.
_ once the lock plate is removed use the socket again to loosen the inner lock nut. the outter wheel bearing will come out after this and the brake drum/hub will slide off.
Then you can do your visual inspection of everything. If you do deciede to replace the brake shoes you should really remove the drums and get them machined/ replaced inner hub seals and clean and relube the bearings etc.
Rich
1973 f350 super c/s 460/c6 22k orig miles
1972 f350 srw crewcab special 390
1972 f250 4x4 sport custom 390fe Red
1972 f250 4x4 custom 360 FE " Ranger Ric"
1972 f250 4x4 custom 84k og miles 390
1971 f250 4x4 sport custom 56k og miles. 360
1970 f250 4x4 428 fe hp60 205 d60
Dont eat yellow snow.....
1973 f350 super c/s 460/c6 22k orig miles
1972 f350 srw crewcab special 390
1972 f250 4x4 sport custom 390fe Red
1972 f250 4x4 custom 360 FE " Ranger Ric"
1972 f250 4x4 custom 84k og miles 390
1971 f250 4x4 sport custom 56k og miles. 360
1970 f250 4x4 428 fe hp60 205 d60
Dont eat yellow snow.....
- colnago
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Re: Help Needed on Rear Brake Rebild, '67 F250 Camper Special
I think I found the thread I was looking for:
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... =5&t=49962
Unfortunately, it looks like the photos have been removed from the server(s), because I'm not seeing them. Looks like I'll have to fumble through. Sounds fairly straightforward (even if it's not, just keep telling me that it's easy ...). I'll have to make sure to take lots of photos.
I will probably replace the drums at the same time. Should I get new wheel studs, too?
Joseph
http://www.fordification.com/forum/view ... =5&t=49962
Unfortunately, it looks like the photos have been removed from the server(s), because I'm not seeing them. Looks like I'll have to fumble through. Sounds fairly straightforward (even if it's not, just keep telling me that it's easy ...). I'll have to make sure to take lots of photos.
I will probably replace the drums at the same time. Should I get new wheel studs, too?
Joseph
"Sugar", my 1967 Ford F250 2WD Camper Special, 352FE, Ford iron "T" Intake with 1405 Edelbrock, Duraspark II Ignition, C6 transmission, front disc brake conversion.
- 1972hiboy
- 100% FORDified!
- Posts: 2421
- Joined: Thu Sep 09, 2010 5:44 pm
- Location: California, Santa Cruz
Re: Help Needed on Rear Brake Rebild, '67 F250 Camper Special
Its pretty straight forward. You will be fine. The wheel studs are usually re-useable.If for some reason you find the studs dont fit tightly going back into the drum/hub then yes replace them. I recomend a large brass drift and a good 5lb mini sledge to push them through. You will tap on them front the front side of the drum and they will push out the back side.This will allow you to remove the drum fron the hub.Then you set the new drum on top of the hub and pound back in the studs to secure the drum to the hub. When you have the drum off, remove the oil seal in the back area of the hub and install a new one. Its preventative maintenance, you dont want to go through all that hard work just to have a inner oil seal leak right onto all your new brake parts. Also, take note of the brake shoes and the way they are installed. The front shoe called the primary doesnt have as much brake material as the back shoe ( secondary shoe). Its important you install the brake shoes with the primary shoe facing forward of the vehicle.
Rich
1973 f350 super c/s 460/c6 22k orig miles
1972 f350 srw crewcab special 390
1972 f250 4x4 sport custom 390fe Red
1972 f250 4x4 custom 360 FE " Ranger Ric"
1972 f250 4x4 custom 84k og miles 390
1971 f250 4x4 sport custom 56k og miles. 360
1970 f250 4x4 428 fe hp60 205 d60
Dont eat yellow snow.....
1973 f350 super c/s 460/c6 22k orig miles
1972 f350 srw crewcab special 390
1972 f250 4x4 sport custom 390fe Red
1972 f250 4x4 custom 360 FE " Ranger Ric"
1972 f250 4x4 custom 84k og miles 390
1971 f250 4x4 sport custom 56k og miles. 360
1970 f250 4x4 428 fe hp60 205 d60
Dont eat yellow snow.....
- bluef250
- Blue Oval Fanatic
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- Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2004 8:49 pm
- Location: Arizona
Re: Help Needed on Rear Brake Rebild, '67 F250 Camper Special
If you don't have the socket, you may consider using a punch to turn the nut or call around to part stores and see if someone has one you can use.
Removal and reassembly of the axle and hub if not hard. There are several pieces to the brake assembly. Get some brake cleaner and use generously to clean up the brake assembly. Get some brake part lub and rear end fluid to use when completing the assemble. there is a gasket between the hub and axle which needs to be installed. I have reused or purchase new.
Check the drums and have them turned if you replace the shoes. If not turnable then you will need difference drums.
You should not need studs, but they are not expensive if you have to replace the drums.
Removal and reassembly of the axle and hub if not hard. There are several pieces to the brake assembly. Get some brake cleaner and use generously to clean up the brake assembly. Get some brake part lub and rear end fluid to use when completing the assemble. there is a gasket between the hub and axle which needs to be installed. I have reused or purchase new.
Check the drums and have them turned if you replace the shoes. If not turnable then you will need difference drums.
You should not need studs, but they are not expensive if you have to replace the drums.