What did you do to YOUR bump today?

[Jacksdad]

I'll take some in the morning and post them. Not sure what they're out of, but they have huge brackets that I can't imagine were factory issue.

[68FORDJBM]

put on an aftermarket horn after screaming at stupid drivers for the last 5 years. It still doesn't work:(. I think it's the push button switch since the horn does work if you jump the wires at the relay.

This post has really taken off!

[Jacksdad]

chvyeatr - here's the pics of my seats as promised. Unfortunately I didn't have time to unbolt the driver's seat, but you can see that the brackets are completely different compared to the passenger side. If I get a chance in the next few days, I'll pull it and get pics.

[chvyeatr]

Those are cool! Here are the ones I snagged. Its not shown really clear but you can see there is some sort of 2 direction leveling bubble on the drivers seat.

[carnuck]

I did a better inspection on my '72 the other day. I thought the 360 was losing oil but it appears it's the 4 speed and the oil filter adapter gasket on the block dripping after shutdown. So far, 300 miles and it still reads full. The bed is pretty much shot (I have a flat deck for it for later)

[Jacksdad]

The passenger seat is in better condition than the driver's (for obvious reason), but they're both solid and pretty comfortable. Unfortunately I need a bench seat - three people and two seats isn't going to work.

[carnuck]

I found out my tcase is a divorced Dana 24





I wonder which noisy 4 speed I have?

[Busboy]

Replaced my rear main seal for the second time.

[abe]

In the past two weeks I replaced my plug wires and coil wire and replaced the coil and added a ballast resister.

[hot-rod]

I cleaned the body of my cab.

Before:

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Now:

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[Busboy]

Installed my redhead steering gearbox, resealed the p.s. pump and finished up the rear main seal installation. Oh yeah, I also added a coil spring spacer shim on the left front. So far the p.s. doesn't lea, the rear main doesn't leak and the truck sits level!

[Jacksdad]

Possibly from my experience with the battery "expert" AAA sent the other day, my starter decided to die. I'd cheaped out and got the 1 year warranty unit because I really wasn't expecting a jackass to try running 36 volts through it, so I took it back and anted up for the lifetime warranty starter. While I was under there changing it, I noticed that I dodged a bullet because the starter wire's insulation had all but disappeared on the last six inches - except for an inch that was held in place against the chassis by the clip - so I got a new 4 gauge replacement while I was at O'Reillys. The difference in the way it cranks (before the old starter decided to retire, that is) is like night and day.
Now I just have to fit the pirated Edsel choke cable. Between a nice thick bracket from Ace Hardware and an aftermarket kit (for the clip that holds the outer cable in place), I should have it rigged up tomorrow. Then I get to change the water pump on my daily driver because the wife's getting tired of being dropped off outside work at the upscale shopping mall in a bright yellow Baja Bug

[rwilly]

Put a new water pump on and then got the truck running. It purred like a kitten! The clutch is working like it should but the brakes need replacing. The master is full of gunk. I might be able to just clean things up, but replacement is cheap.

[rollercam1]

Continued boxing in the frame. Building tubular cross-members, Someday, it will be ready for painting the frame!

[Jacksdad]

After taking a break from working on the F350, I decided to tackle my long standing issues with carb/fuel line heat soak, and an incredibly annoying backfire under load that's started getting worse recently. On top of that, the engine has no pick up lately when I get into the gas - it just lays down and does nothing but make more noise.
So I grabbed a can of starter fluid, shaved down the little tube from a can of WD40 and fitted it to the nozzle to better direct the spray, and started looking for a vacuum leak. First thing I found was the carb choke tube port (which I'd blocked) was open again and sucking air. Once that was resealed, I still had my backfire but a slight improvement in driveability, so I got back to spraying and discovered that somewhere at the back of the manifold on the driver's side saw the RPMs pick up.
It got me wondering if my backfire isn't as random as I thought, and actually the same cylinder (#8 in this case), so I pulled the plug wire and took it out for a drive again. The cylinder being out was noticeable, but nothing I did would made it backfire, so I guess I found my problem. Just for reference, the motor was rebuilt just before I got it, and when I had an issue with a couple of burned valves (maybe 2000 miles ago) I changed the heads out. The replacements got new valves as needed, and while the heads were off I noticed that the cylinders had no step on the bores and .040"+ pistons. It doesn't burn any oil (although it has a few leaks), and it has a Pertronix ignition module and Accel supercoil.
I fitted an aftermarket manual choke at the weekend (the Edsel one I was hoping to use is about 4" too short ), and when I took it to get gas tonight, I put the plug wire back on. When it was nice and warm, I floored it - usually guaranteed to make it backfire - with the choke pulled out and it ran like a charm. Sooo... it looks like I probably have a manifold leak with #8 cylinder leaning out. I'll try tightening the bolts and run through the basics (compression test, timing, plugs, etc) but I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to pull 100lbs of cast iron soon. Oh joy...