May I have advice on new wheels and tires for #50?

[robroy]

Good day!

Might y'all be willing to advise me on new wheels and tires for #50?

Why I'm asking

#50's tires are twenty years old, and one of them's giving up the ghost; it's losing chunks of tread along the outer edge. I guess I also have to fix the positive camber problem, or I'll eventually ruin the new tires. Yet I'd like a way to get #50 rolling in the meanwhile.



Here's another close-up showing the exposed cord.

I'd like to buy new wheels also, because several tire guys have told me over the years that at least two of #50's wheels were too bent to balance very well. And I can remember reading that 16" wheels are the way to go, for better tire selection.

What's on #50 now

I don't know what #50's current wheel width is. If I can remember correctly, '72 F250s came with two different wheel widths, and #50 has the wider of the two. I do have a spare wheel (with a tire mounted on it) out in the front yard, yet I don't know of any easy way to measure the wheel's width.

The current tires are ~31" tall, have a ~7" tread width, and say:

9.50R16.5 LT 116/112Q M+S
LOAD RANGE D
2,780 lb @ 65 PSI

#50's rear's a 3:73 Dana 60, which I may swap for a 3:54 Dana 60 at some point.

#50's transmission's a T18, which I may swap out for a 4:1 T19 at some point.

#50 has all-new manual steering (maybe skinnier tires are better for this)?

What #50's used for

#50's gets used for occasional joy-rides and light hauling. Yet even joy-rides around here mean freeway miles, so I'd like to make #50 more freeway-friendly. I suppose taller tires are better than shorter ones.

#50's FE has a little power (rear-wheel maximums: ~324 HP @ ~4,750 RPM and ~405 ft/lbs @ ~3,750 RPM), but I only drive on the street, and I don't do burn-outs or anything more radical than occasional wide-open throttle bursts from about 20 to 70 MPH. I don't think I have use for more traction than what's on there now, but less traction might be bad; I'm not sure.

My current naive plan

I'm thinking of buying four new 82 Series O.E. wheels from Wheel Vintiques, and having Cooper DISCOVERER HT3 tires put on them.

I'm inclined towards four identical wheels+tires, for the sake of simplicity.



So, these tires are sold in seven different variants for 16" wheels, and the wheels come in four widths: 6", 7", 8" and 10" (this tire doesn't have a size for the 10" wheels).

I'm leaning towards one of the two highlighted combinations, and especially towards the one on the left (the 6" wheel option).



Questions

I don't have experience with choosing wheels and tires, so I my plan's probably naive. I'd sure appreciate the opinions of some experienced members. Thanks so much!

1. Should I go with four identical wheels+tires, or go with wider rears (is it worth the trouble)?
2. Which wheel widths would y'all recommend?
3. Would the manual steering be noticeably more pleasant with skinnier tires?

Thanks so much for all the terrific guidance!

Robroy

[flyboy2610]

I'm not going to be much help with your questions, but if I hang on to Frodo I'm going to have get new wheels and tires for him, also. He has 16.5 inch tires as well.
I'm not sure if these are the exact wheels (I have them bookmarked on my computer down in the man-cave, I'm using the upstairs computer at the moment) but this is the style I'm going with. It's the same style he has now:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/usw- ... /overview/

I figure 5 (with the spare) wheels at $85 each, plus 5 tires mounted and out the door at the tire shop I use for $1250, that's $1675 right there.
Oh, my achin' wallet!

[idaho_cowboy]

RobRoy,

I don't know if you've pulled the trigger on tires/wheels or not. But coming from a tire background, here's what I'd do in your situation;

Go with 235/85/16 = It's the best all around tire size for our trucks, bar-none. The 265/75 is good too.. And probably better for strictly highway. BUT it will be easier to find 10 ply (Load range E) with the 235/85. Also, don't buy Cooper radials. Just don't do it. It might save you money, but it doesn't really in the long run. Buy some BFGoodrich all-seasons, or Firestones with a good hwy tread. Even a TOYO AT. But NOT Cooper. You'll thank me.

Also, go with the 8" wheel. 6" is way too narrow. 8 will fit really good with the 235/85. In fact, for about $75 each, you can get OEM style 16" rims at http://www.autorimshop.com/wheel.html?c ... al=164#p=1 , And then paint or powder-coat if you really want the satin/black look.

Have fun!
- Joseph

[robroy]

Flyboy2610 and Joseph, thanks so much for your excellent replies!

I'm not going to be much help with your questions, but if I hang on to Frodo I'm going to have get new wheels and tires for him, also. He has 16.5 inch tires as well.
I'm not sure if these are the exact wheels (I have them bookmarked on my computer down in the man-cave, I'm using the upstairs computer at the moment) but this is the style I'm going with. It's the same style he has now:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/usw- ... /overview/

Thanks for this. I noticed in a customer review on those wheels that they're American made; you'd think the manufacturer would put that in big flashing lights, huh. Those seem like a good bargain at that price too.

I figure 5 (with the spare) wheels at $85 each, plus 5 tires mounted and out the door at the tire shop I use for $1250, that's $1675 right there.
Oh, my achin' wallet!

Yeah! Thank goodness it's not a frequent cost--well, at least not the wheels.

RobRoy,

I don't know if you've pulled the trigger on tires/wheels or not.

Not yet!

But coming from a tire background, here's what I'd do in your situation;

Go with 235/85/16 = It's the best all around tire size for our trucks, bar-none.

Thanks so much for this advice. This seems like the way to go with a skinny tire that won't be too skinny.

The 265/75 is good too.. And probably better for strictly highway.

Thanks. Would these be better for highway-only driving because they're wider?

BUT it will be easier to find 10 ply (Load range E) with the 235/85.

Okay, thank you!

Also, don't buy Cooper radials. Just don't do it. It might save you money, but it doesn't really in the long run. Buy some BFGoodrich all-seasons, or Firestones with a good hwy tread. Even a TOYO AT. But NOT Cooper. You'll thank me.

I appreciate this; thank you. I am thinking of a highway tire, yet I'm hesitant about the Firestone's since they're Japanese-owned. I did a little more searching and found this, which suggests that Goodyear's also an OK choice for those trying to keep money as close to home as possible: How Americans Can Buy American.

I'd be curious to hear your thoughts on the Goodyear Wrangler HT 235/85/R16 (Load Range E), if you feel like commenting.

Also, go with the 8" wheel. 6" is way too narrow. 8 will fit really good with the 235/85. In fact, for about $75 each, you can get OEM style 16" rims at http://www.autorimshop.com/wheel.html?c ... al=164#p=1 , And then paint or powder-coat if you really want the satin/black look.

You know, I actually like the silver wheel's looks more than the black ones; they look friendlier. I'd probably run them as-is without changing the color.

So, maybe I'll go with these refurbished OEM wheels from AutoRimShop, with those Goodyear Wrangler HT 235/85/R16 (Load Range E).

It looks like the 265/75/R16 tires will also fit that same 7" wheel, so I might be able to go wider in the future if I change my mind about the skinny tires (after wearin' them out).

Flyboy2610 and Joseph, thank you both again for your help.

[idaho_cowboy]

I'm glad you can take something from this.

Face it, the Japs make the best rubber. Get past that, and we're golden! Goodyear's have very weak sidewalls. Soft. Performance is fair. Reliability with road hazards, not so much.

Good-luck!
- Joseph

[Ren]

I pulled my 8 lug, 16" rims from a '90-something E250 van from a junkyard for $10 a piece. Bought a 12 pack of cheap, liver rotting swill as bait for a friend to help me. Scrubbed the rims with Brillo pads and water. Then rattle-canned them white. Bought new Goodyear Wranglers 245/75/16. So far, so good.

[Mancar1]

robroy
I have been very happy on the HWY with my BF Goodrich T/A all season LT 235/85R 16s on the 68 CS.

Good luck on your quest, and keep on Trucking.........John.
PS Thanks again for the advice on the high torque mini stater. Had it a while now and love it.

[Ranchero50]

Wheels typically match the bumpers and grill. OEM dog dish hub caps would scream sleeper on stock wheels and give them a finished look.

Going with a premium tire really isn't necessary for your intended use and duty. I have Starfire's on the back of my dually. Local Cooper dealer told me the contractor's really liked their lifespan and they cost @ 1/2 od the Coopers. Unless you chose white walls I wouldn't sweat the name on the side. Best set of sticky tires I ever had on my blown Mustang were a set of Kenda's from somewhere overseas. They hooked like ET streets and actually handled corners well.

[robroy]

Joseph, Ren, John and Jamie, thanks so much for your great replies.

I'm glad you can take something from this.

Face it, the Japs make the best rubber. Get past that, and we're golden! Goodyear's have very weak sidewalls. Soft. Performance is fair. Reliability with road hazards, not so much.

Thanks Joseph; I appreciate your experience here.

I pulled my 8 lug, 16" rims from a '90-something E250 van from a junkyard for $10 a piece. Bought a 12 pack of cheap, liver rotting swill as bait for a friend to help me. Scrubbed the rims with Brillo pads and water. Then rattle-canned them white. Bought new Goodyear Wranglers 245/75/16. So far, so good.

Hmmm okay. Thank you Ren. If you've put some miles on the truck since then, I'd be curious to know how the paint has held up.

robroy
I have been very happy on the HWY with my BF Goodrich T/A all season LT 235/85R 16s on the 68 CS.

Good luck on your quest, and keep on Trucking.........John.

Thanks John. I'll try for the same size: 235/85/R16.

PS Thanks again for the advice on the high torque mini stater. Had it a while now and love it.

You're welcome! Yeah, I'm happy with mine too, and have had zero problems with it.

Wheels typically match the bumpers and grill. OEM dog dish hub caps would scream sleeper on stock wheels and give them a finished look.

I like this idea; thank you Jamie.

Going with a premium tire really isn't necessary for your intended use and duty. I have Starfire's on the back of my dually. Local Cooper dealer told me the contractor's really liked their lifespan and they cost @ 1/2 od the Coopers. Unless you chose white walls I wouldn't sweat the name on the side. Best set of sticky tires I ever had on my blown Mustang were a set of Kenda's from somewhere overseas. They hooked like ET streets and actually handled corners well.

Okay, thanks for this advice.

Today's update

I bought five wheels from San Benito Auto Wreckers in Hollister, California, for $161.25 with tax. The wheels were located for me by a neighborhood tire shop.

Though these old wheels have probably saved me only $200 to $300 compared to buying the reconditioned wheels, it just seemed simpler to me to pick something up locally. Joseph, I sure appreciate your advice on the reconditioned wheels all the same. Maybe by the time I've made these wheels look less ugly, I'll wish I'd gone for the reconditioned ones straight away.

The two on the right are slightly different from the three on the left. Though the difference doesn't look like it'll preclude their use, I'm not sure if the OEM dog dish hub caps will go on those two. I didn't realize this until I'd already paid for the wheels.






Today's Question

• What's that green thing strapped to the inside of one of the wheels? An air pressure sensor? 'OK for me to remove it and toss it?

Joseph, Ren, John and Jamie, thank you again for your advice.

[Ren]

Yeah. its an electronic sensor thingy for tire pressure. Yet another electronic devil-box designed to make simple things complicated and annoying.
Rust-Oleum from a rattlecan has held up well enough to satisfy me for 2 years. No obvious, obnoxious signs of rust. But I don't know how persnickity you are.

[Ranchero50]

I would double check the bolt pattern (on the truck) before doing anything to those wheels. TPMS sensors most likely means they are post '99-ish when the bolt pattern changed to metric.

All the yards I've ever dealt with would swap out parts if there was a mistake on fitment as long as the part wasn't modified. You should be able to find some period correct parts, probably be worth it to take an old hubcap along.

[robroy]

Ren and Jamie, thanks so much for replying.

Yeah. its an electronic sensor thingy for tire pressure. Yet another electronic devil-box designed to make simple things complicated and annoying.

Haha. Okay, thanks.

Rust-Oleum from a rattlecan has held up well enough to satisfy me for 2 years. No obvious, obnoxious signs of rust. But I don't know how persnickity you are.

All right; 'good to know. I don't know how persnickity I am either. The two odd wheels on the right are actually covered in what seems to be soot, and it comes right off. If they all work, and if the gray paint's in okay shape, I may run them as-is. If not, I guess I'll try for Corinthian White.

I would double check the bolt pattern (on the truck) before doing anything to those wheels. TPMS sensors most likely means they are post '99-ish when the bolt pattern changed to metric.

Thanks. Yeah, I can see "2007" stamped in to that metal band holding the one air pressure sensor on.

All the yards I've ever dealt with would swap out parts if there was a mistake on fitment as long as the part wasn't modified. You should be able to find some period correct parts, probably be worth it to take an old hubcap along.

Hmm okay. This is the first time I've gone to a wrecking yard in twenty years, so I've forgotten the conventions for cases like this. So thank you. If the two odd wheels do turn out to be excessively odd, I'll go back there and try again. It's only about half an hour away.

I actually don't have a dog dish 'cap to try. Maybe I should buy those first--then again, I should probably "strike while the iron's hot" on a wrecking yard exchange. Hmmm.

Thank you again Ren and Jamie.

[003Ryder]

Good day Robroy, do you know by chance what year and vehicle those rims came off of? gonna check at my junkyards and salvage yards for rims and would like if possible a year to go by

Thanks!

[robroy]

Thanks for replying 003Ryder.

Good day Robroy, do you know by chance what year and vehicle those rims came off of?

I'd like to know that myself. I heard a wrecking yard gentleman say "1996" on the phone, yet he didn't sound very confident about it, and I did drive away with two subtly different wheel variants. During a chat about the wheels in person, this chap expressed his opinion that "they're all the same," and that "it's a very common wheel." And while they may be common, I can already see that they're not all exactly the same.

Today's Update

All photos may be clicked on to see much larger editions.

I pulled #50 out to trial fit the wheels.



I tried the more hopeful of the two types first--the less scummy ones, with the "bumps" presumably made to hold on a dog dish.

I put the lug nuts on to center the wheel, and gave it a spin. It spun perfectly; I didn't feel or hear any clearance problems.



This wheel did appear to come closer to the caliper than the factory wheels, yet there was still clearance. I could poke a little piece of thick wire in between the wheel and the caliper all the way around, though there wasn't much more room than that.



For comparison, here's the clearance between the factory 16.5" wheel and the caliper. It seems a little more comfortable.



The scummy wheel version also fit well. When I spun it, I felt no clearance problems, yet I could hear a tiny rub happening when two internally mounted lead balancing weights passed over the closest caliper bulges.



Here are the culprits of the rub, which could be heard yet not felt.

I guess I'll just yank these off, though this experience has made me realize something: going with these wheels may mean that I'll have to tell tire guys, forever more, not to mount balancing weights on the insides of the wheels. I suspect that the factory, 16.5" wheels may not have been subject to this issue.



The prettier wheel fit nicely on the rear; I didn't bother to bolt it in place to center it, because it didn't seem close to anything that could cause trouble.



And the sooty wheel fit just as well.



Both wheel types have the same easily measurable external dimensions: about 17.5" across, and 8 and 3/16" wide, measured as shown below. The official size of these wheels is 16" by 7", but I'm not sure how to measure them properly.



Today's Questions

1. Does the caliper clearance seem fine, with the new wheels? So long as they is clearance, are they fine?
2. I take it that if the wheel with the air pressure sensor had been the newer, metric variety, it wouldn't have bolted on at all. Do I have this right?

003Ryder, thank you again for replying.

[DuckRyder]

I know this is a fairly common swap, But I don't know how common the front disc are...

I'd personally not be too comfortable with that clearance, you'll have some movement in the wheel bearings and perhaps some flex in the wheel itself while turning.

If it is still up in the air and bolted on try putting some force against it by hand and see whats up...