a horse with no name - F100 build

[hfdco4]

Do you have access to a welder? I may have some sills from a parts truck I can send you if you have a way to install them.

[hfdco4]

Any updates?

[Ranchero50]

Honestly, after looking at a bunch of the pics I'd part the cab out and find another. Money and time invested in it with literally no return for the investment. It's just too far gone to bring back safely. The angle strut stuff is garbage and without being able to weld in OEM formed metal you're not going to get it back to running shape.

I've parted out trucks in much better shape.

[mouse]

am not able to getting back out to the truck till tomorrow and need it back running so I can get around to make some more money. yes i know I need to set the height of the front of the cab from the frame so the steering dose not bind up, I can accomplish that with what I have available. I found a cab about 4hrs away and would have to figure out how Im going to go get that in a few weeks if still available. I know someone that can and has a welder, would need to get it to the person tho.

[hfdco4]

Put it out on here and FTE (Ford Truck Enthusiast) for someone local that may be able to help. I know if we were closer I would help you out. That is what I think these forums should work like.

[mouse]

I pulled the mini starter since I had good access so I can grind down this ear some more than I did at first. I got it so the wrap is not half hanging off now.





I got the brace bolted in firmly and will put the support plate in tomorrow






I fought the steering box getting it in place, had to notch and bend the perch so it can fit. in the lower bolt hole I found rock that gave some issues as well.




I also have a issues that needs to be resolved. the transmission and the driveshaft carrier are a half inch to a in from there bolt holes.

[mouse]

Put it out on here and FTE (Ford Truck Enthusiast) for someone local that may be able to help. I know if we were closer I would help you out. That is what I think these forums should work like.

I may do so, this site had been helpful before in the past. I had someone offer a cab in the past for my last truck that I wasn't able to go get and had to let the truck go since I was moving at the time.

[Lone Ranger]

I like how your going to it on this truck making it work with what you got. It's refreshing to see. I think everyone would like to use brand new parts and have tons of extra money to dump in these trucks but most people can't. I'd like a new cab but they cost more than I paid for my whole truck around here. Keep it up man!

[mouse]

I moved the cab around so the steering column would align with the box. doing so I found I needed to knock some the hack off the back corner of the cab so the cab will sit correctly. it was a unnecessary cake up of bondo and fiber glass to hide rust.





I also got the drivers side support plate in place, will need a new starter bit to do the passenger side plate.




next time I come out to my truck I am going to have to make adapter plates for the mounts. this is so I can use the latter motor mounts over the pre 64 ones that are most likely the cause of my motor sitting to far forward. that is unless I can figure out if there are pre 64 one that will work correctly.

[mouse]

I move the tank back about two inches so the fill hose dose not hit a bed rail



I got a 54mm 90* elbow to come off the tank. I stuffed a 1 7/8 hose into that with a pipe in the center, if it leaks I will find a step pipe.





I had a 67 vented fill neck laying around, I used that for the fill and will box this corner in at a later time. I need to find a 90* pipe since this hose dose not bend sharp enough.




I also made use of some my scrap for two 5x6 inch plates. I got the newer motor mounts and will put them on these plates tomorrow.
I also bolted the clip on as well today.

[mouse]

its been raining off and on all day so did not get on the motor mounts. I did get one the front brakes freed up, brake lines hooked up and bleed. I had to spent time running around trying to find axle u bolts, at o'reilly's found 13-0115a universal u bolt that fit. I miss measured for the sheet i grabbed for the floor, so am going to cut up the sign i got laying around to fill the void.



I took a picture of the old twisted up motor perches as well. the drives side one was welded to frame when i got the truck and eventually broke free, no bolts where in ether.

[mouse]

I got some adapter plates made, this has the motor moved back a inch and a half. the drive shaft can now be installed in the correct place. I am going to get some thicker plates off a friend so it dose not sag as bad. now I am basically down to getting this lab rat wired back up.

[Lone Ranger]

Your making some good progress. I really like your rear tank with your fill hose coming up in the back corner. It seems like most guys put the cap flush on the bed but I've never liked how that looked. Having it stick up and boxed in will be way easier to reach over and fill too.

[mouse]

I spent today and yesterday chasing nitpick stuff. there was one part of the brake line for the rear which had a hidden rusted part that started to leak and had to replace. I also came to decision to run a new 3/8 metal line for the fuel, it would had been better if I installed it before the steering box. I hit the floor with some etching primer as well. I have the duals tie wired up till i decide where im going to mount them from and will get some turn downs for now




this is what mostly sold me on the truck, it was a low mile rebuild on the engine and transmission. Its a 30 over 390 with a mild cam that is not much better than a advanced stock cam. I am going to have to change out the mismatched heads some time in the future. I have been cleaning up the install since I got this and chasing minor issues. I switched the carb for a holley 4160 750 over rebuilding the edelbrock when I got this. it had a all in one accel distributor that gave me a lot of problems and killed a starter. I went with a msd 6A box with a duraspark distributor and have not had a much issues since. I am using the type II cap with 8mm sbf wires, need to still correct the coil wire. i found it runs best so far out of what plugs i have tried with ngk ap8fs. I also put a 3g on this as well, it just started surging 16v and need to find out why. I have 2ga ran to the starter and block ground with 4ga to the alternator. the 4ga lead runs through a fusible link panel I got off a vw jetta, this leaves me with further expansion.





and thus have a mobile toy again. now need to see if I can dig a cab out of the woodwork and should grab a parachute next time i go jumping off a bridge. It looks a bit better now with the sight drop

[mouse]

Your making some good progress. I really like your rear tank with your fill hose coming up in the back corner. It seems like most guys put the cap flush on the bed but I've never liked how that looked. Having it stick up and boxed in will be way easier to reach over and fill too.

yea having the fill in the middle of bed yields a partially useless space and looks out of place