wheels?

[hotrod ford]

would the factory wheels from a 97 f250 fit the lug pattern on my 68 f250?

[fordman]

yes i think so. i think they changed in 98 to metric

[FLATBEDFORD]

Yup. For the eight lugs, '97 and older.

[basketcase0302]

Hotrod,

Can I hitchhike along here....

So if I want a newer set of wheels for the dually, 98 and below will fit also?

Thought I saw 96' here somewhere awhile back was the "magic" number.

Basketcase

[FLATBEDFORD]

'97 for the 3/4 and one tons. With our duallies, what may be a problem is that the newer trucks use wheels that are not lug centric, like our split rims, but hub centric. They use lug nuts with big washers on them, nut the acorn type we have. The fit of the wheel on the hub keeps them centered, not the lug nuts. I have seen the newer style on older trucks, so, I don't know if its a problem or not. I have 4 of the newer style ones, I have to see how they work on my truck some time. What you really want are a set of one piece wheels with the coined holes. I found a set off an '80 F350 last year. I paid $50 for them. I haven't put them on the truck yet because they need paint and tires.

These are the wheels I have.

[basketcase0302]

Guys (and gals)...
Time to bump this one back to the top for verification purposes. Steve you pretty much confirmed it above:

I have seen the newer style on older trucks, so, I don't know if its a problem or not.

I had gotten a set of Alcoa aluminum rims for BC # 16 a few months ago. My truck had never seen an alignment rack in the seven years I've owned it, (and it's always had front wheel vibration). I confirmed a bad king pin bushing on the DS wheel about two days ago, so to the alignment rack it went...The alignment shop has been around here for along time, so I trust their work. They informed me this afternoon that my "new-to-me" Alcoa's (that came from an 86' F-350 DRW and are hub centric) will not work on my truck. Zach and I spent half the day today going to five different boneyards, (3 of which got on the junkyard(s) internet network) with no luck on finding another set of one piece wheels for my truck! I found two different yards that thought they had the correct wheels, (only to drive there and find out they were in fact 16.5 which I won't touch with a stick)!

I do believe I might have a solution to my wheels though, more on this later...

[FLATBEDFORD]

Well that sucks that your wheels won't work for you. Curious about the solution. I have had those wheels for more than 3 years and I still haven't put them on the truck yet.

[TNIceWolf]

I'll chime in here with my limited knowledge and share something I found on my search for wheels and tires for my dually F-350 thanks to an experienced hand at our local CO-OP.
As mentioned above by flatbedford there are two types of centering systems. As it was explained to me one is sometimes called a beveled type and the other a flat. The beveled type uses a lug centering system and the flat type uses a hub centering design. My 69 used the harder to find beveled type and I had to replace a few of the old two piece split rims with aftermarket one pieces. Here is a pic showing the bevels.



If you look at the hubs on an F-350 like ours you can see where the alignment pins locate the bevels in the hub and also sort of lock the rear duals together.

[basketcase0302]

Curious about the solution.

Steve, I believe that I found my solution today, (it was as i posted above an "old timers" trick used for our rims). Quite a bit of machine work today got rid of most of my vibration, (now...if they would have replaced the king pins at the shop Thursday and Friday as requested that I needed, BC # 16 would be ready for the open road)!

If you look at the hubs on an F-350 like ours you can see where the alignment pins locate the bevels in the hub and also sort of lock the rear duals together.

TNIceWolf,

The dowels are not the problem or the solution in my case, (my Alcoa's have the dowels and mate both sets of DRW's fine). The hub centric wheels simply will not stay centered to the wheel studs, (no matter how much you torque them down on the lugs). After extensive machine work to the Alcoa's today, it seems to have solved my issue of "hub centric-lug centric / non-interchange" issue.

[Bumpside Collector]

Curious about the solution.

Steve, I believe that I found my solution today, (it was as i posted above an "old timers" trick used for our rims). Quite a bit of machine work today got rid of most of my vibration, (now...if they would have replaced the king pins at the shop Thursday and Friday as requested that I needed, BC # 16 would be ready for the open road)!

If you look at the hubs on an F-350 like ours you can see where the alignment pins locate the bevels in the hub and also sort of lock the rear duals together.

TNIceWolf,

The dowels are not the problem or the solution in my case, (my Alcoa's have the dowels and mate both sets of DRW's fine). The hub centric wheels simply will not stay centered to the wheel studs, (no matter how much you torque them down on the lugs). After extensive machine work to the Alcoa's today, it seems to have solved my issue of "hub centric-lug centric / non-interchange" issue.

Sounds expensive!

[TNIceWolf]

BC

The dowels are not the problem or the solution in my case, (my Alcoa's have the dowels and mate both sets of DRW's fine). The hub centric wheels simply will not stay centered to the wheel studs, (no matter how much you torque them down on the lugs). After extensive machine work to the Alcoa's today, it seems to have solved my issue of "hub centric-lug centric / non-interchange" issue

Glad to hear that you got the problem resolved but sad to hear it had to be such a pain.
I didnt mean to imply that the locating pin was the problem. I had one of those non beveled rims that bolted up just fine but wouldnt stay centered on the front of my truck when I got it. If you look at the pic of the rim you see that the hole directly below the locating pin is beveled outward and that the next hole is inward and the pattern repeats around the wheel. Those inward bevels on the reverse side of the wheel are what locates the wheel to the machined surfaces in the hub that achieve the centering. There are 4 places in the hub machined to fit that protruding bevel on the four matching holes in the rim aligned to the pin. When you flip one wheel around to assemble the rear dual the pin insures that the in /out/bevels interlock and maintain the non slip centering. I suspect that the machining in some way achieved the same thing. Now time to kick the shop in the butt and get those kingpins replaced!

[AK F100]

I believe the term for the beveled wheels is "coined" and for flat is "non-coined", then you have the pinned (dowel) type also and the non-coined type have a interlocking dowel pin that sometimes does not line up with the hole in the hub of the vehicle and causes a problem with the rim not setting flush on the hub. Getting duallie styled wheels to center up can be a pain in the @$$ some times, but well worth the extra effort to get it right.

Good luck with your fix for the problem.

[FLATBEDFORD]

Did you have the bolt holes beveled to take acorn nuts by the shop? Got pictures?