Conversion to front disc brakes

[ponyexpress]

I plan on converting my 71 F-100 to front disc brake pretty soon. I know the easiest way is to use the front axles and spindles from a 73 thru 79 but what do I do for proportioning valve/ distribution block? Do I leave the distribution block in place so the brake light will still work if there is a leak and add a proportioning valve. I would like to hear what others have done when converting to disc.

[basketcase0302]

ponyexpress » Wed Sep 28, 2016 8:56 am

I plan on converting my 71 F-100 to front disc brake pretty soon. I know the easiest way is to use the front axles and spindles from a 73 thru 79 but what do I do for proportioning valve/ distribution block? Do I leave the distribution block in place so the brake light will still work if there is a leak and add a proportioning valve. I would like to hear what others have done when converting to disc.

The "valve" that is on the truck right now is not a true proportioning valve. It will work in a pinch but does not send the proper amount of bias to the front discs. All the replacement valves have the port for the brake light switch, (which simply unscrews out of your existing "valve" and into the new valve). And yes, be prepared to do some plumbing on the brake lines. If you need the double flaring tool to make your brake lines, (much easier than trying to get a prefabbed kit of brake lines which never fit) I have one for sale.

Here's one source for the new valve: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp- ... AjD-8P8HAQ

[Craigerf100]

I plan on converting my 71 F-100 to front disc brake pretty soon. I know the easiest way is to use the front axles and spindles from a 73 thru 79 but what do I do for proportioning valve/ distribution block? Do I leave the distribution block in place so the brake light will still work if there is a leak and add a proportioning valve. I would like to hear what others have done when converting to disc.

Basketcase is correct, its smart to buy a disc/drum valve aka proportioning valve. I personally read on many sources that stated: if your planning to run all 4 disc that you can/should run a block valve aka drum valve (all 4 drum brake valve). so since my build is awhile away from getting rear disc but it now has front disc. I personally chose to got an adjustable proportioning valve off eBay and spliced it into the rear brake line off the MC. and slowly adjusted it down to wear the rear brakes don't lock up before the front. see, why its "bad" to run a block/drum valve on a disc/drum brake systems; is that the rear brakes have a tendency to lock up before the rear, sometimes resulting in a jack knife effect. once my adjustable valve was installed and adjusted. I couldn't be happier, stops straight and true.

so its not just about bias but more on how the brake pressure ss distrusted. brake pressure Is brake pressure. drums are made for braking underweight, more surface area more friction (but also tent to fade out). there for making an instant harder stop, especially with a booster. when disc brakes are more of a variable stop, or controlled braking.(disc brakes disperse heat there for reducing brake fade).

with that said if you're not daily driving your truck or hauling and towing all the time. I would just buy a new brake booster and new MC (not remand) and install. I did this on my dads 64 f100 and man oh man that thing can stop.

[ultraranger]

A front disc brake/power brake booster swap I just finished up last week on a '72 F100 long bed Sport Custom.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/14526 ... oster.html